Sticky sweetness leads, with glace and maraschino cherries, and plums jumping from the glass. But there is a dark bitterness close behind, with woody wormwood bitterness joined by green leaves. Between the two sits a pool of bittersweet spice. Rich and rounded, with the sweetness from the nose rolling immediately across the palate. It stops halfway, beaten back by leafy bitterness and then covered with rich and fruity notes: sweet red grapes and bitter skins; strawberry compote and a pinch of pepper. A rich ball of sweetness slowly crumbles, revealing a dark core of bittersweet liquorice pastilles, dark oak and bitter leaves.