Gian Battista Cambiaso planted the very first Cortese vines in Gavi 400 years ago. The dry white wine he produced was the first recorded in the region, and his Castello La Toledana is one of the very few Genoese noble houses still standing today. But why did he pick this corner, in what today’s the south-eastern corner of Piedmonte? Because it’s close to the Ligurian coast – and that creates a climate which is just perfect for Cortese, the grape used to make Gavi. It’s often called the ‘Chablis of Italy’, and we can see why. Crisp. Fresh. Citrussy. It’s deliciously refreshing and aromatic, with hints of white peaches and honey. Unsurprisingly, given where it’s from, Gavi’s is fantastic with pesto and vegetable dishes.