Think Bolly – think Bond. Or, rather less prosaically, Absolutely Fabulous. Bollinger has glitzy associations, but beneath the ritz lies seriously high-quality fizz. Unusually for a Champagne, where richness and toasty flavours are usually the result of ageing, Bollinger uses oak to ferment its base wines so they have a roundness, spiciness and creamy texture. Also unusually for Champagne, 75% of the grapes used for this Brut NV are grown by them in vineyards which are nearly all Grand and Premier Cru. It means the fruit in the bottle is the best of the best – so it’s no wonder that Bollinger has a bit of a cult following. Ripe. Buttery. Full. The lush texture underpins apple and pear flavours. It’s 60% Pinot Noir, giving the wine great structure, making it ideal with sushi or sashimi.