In the early 1920s, Châteauneuf-du-Pape was awash with substandard wines. So, the region decided to introduce some controls – specifying grape varieties and growing guidelines – which would guarantee consistent quality. It worked so well it inspired the whole French appellation contrôlée system – proof that pushing the bounds of convention can give great rewards. That’s Les Grandes Serres’ ethos. They keep their yields even lower, and harvest even later than is standard in Châteauneuf, determined to make their wines better and better. This wine is a case in point. It’s intensely concentrated, with a really plush texture. Rich aromas jump out of the glass. Black cherry. Plum. Black pepper. A mellow spiciness from a bit of oak. And its woody-herb flavours make it sublime with lamb chops.