Very smoky and nutty on the nose. If you’ve ever dry-toasted sesame seeds and pistachio nuts on a pan on the stove, and left them on the heat for just a few seconds too long – not burnt, but one side a little too dark – then you know exactly how this wine smells and tastes in the first moments. Then it builds into grapefruit and yuzu, early-morning jasmine and slate dust and the scent-taste of a campfire at dawn after a little bit of cool night rain. Dry and muscular. Long, finely-tapered finish . Serious. Well worth its price tag. 17/20 Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com